FOROURFIRST Best of the City in almost four years, Portland Monthly’s intrepid “Team BOTC” scoured every nook and cranny of town. We toiled away, nibbling gourmet cheese plates, sampling carefully measured cocktails, browsing racks of locally made clothes, and—when absolutely necessary—ordering a spa treatment or two. We even went dancing.

Sacrifices were made (lest we forget things we tried that didn’t make the list). But overall, it was worth it to ensure that you, our readers, can find Portland’s A+ experiences in a flash.

Just in case we missed something, we consulted six celebrated local tastemakers who also offer their own favorites. And we asked you. (Don’t miss the readers’ picks.)

The unanimous conclusion? Portland has never been better.

FOOD | Readers’ Picks

SHOPPING | Readers’ Picks

DRINKS& NIGHTLIFE | Readers’ Picks

SERVICES | Readers’ Picks

DIVERSIONS | Readers’ Picks

FAMILY | Readers’ Picks

Image: Stuart Mullenberg

MASTERCLASS

IN 2004, NEWYORKCITY writer Ed Levine asked scribes around the country, including me, to define their town’s edible nirvana for his book Pizza: A Slice of Heaven. My contribution was grim: “Pizza does not drive datebooks in Portland. Does broccoli, much less Thai BBQ chicken, belong on a pizza?”

What a difference a few years make. By 2006, Portland earned legitimate stripes among geeky pie purists and populist eaters alike, as a new breed of obsessive pizza makers merged Old World techniques with new ideas about local sourcing and neighborhood vibes. As we celebrate our city’s pizza rinascimento, these four places define the new pie paradigm.

HIDDENGEMS

PIZZA IS HARDLYRARE. You can’t swing a salami in this town without hitting a middling cheese-and-grease parlor. But serious sleuths seek out the hidden pies—those that live quiet existences in the cozy corners of our fine-dining scene. They may not scream for attention with neon signs or toppings piled high, but these creations from some of the area’s savviest chefs certainly deserve notice.

P-TOWNSPECIALS

PIZZA IS UNIVERSAL. We know this. But for all of Portland’s reinventions of New York–style, Neapolitan, or Californified pies, there exist a few entries in the cheese-sauce-crust scene that could only happen here, amid the farms and firs—and, let’s face it, the frugal. And so we offer this homage to pizza places with “Portland” tattooed on their doughy little hearts. (With soy ink, no doubt.)

CLEVERCRUSTS

TO THEANCIENTS, nothing in geometry matched the circle’s perfection. In an age of pesto bases, pineapple slices, and taco toppings, even the most daring pie-lovers appreciate the traditional disc. Thus, instead of simply accumulating a more exotic or colossal tower of toppings (though they’re doing that, too), some Portlanders tweak—and in some cases reinvent—the wheel itself.

FAMILYFAVES

WITHITSBROADAPPEAL, pizza is the ultimate brood food. The finicky 5-year-old loves herself some meaty, saucy goodness; the exhausted parent appreciates a culinary genre associated with beer—but not with doing dishes. Whatever army you need to fuel, here are three very different takes the classic family pizza joint.

Image: Michael Novak, Kristen Kohashi

IF LOVE IS BLIND, falling for a great wine should happen sight unseen. For this biannual feature, our marathon wine tastings were conducted over four days, fully blind, with hundreds of brown-bagged bottles hiding their stories and secrets from our panelists’ discerning noses and palates. Spanning four years’ worth of vintages, 19 varietals, 15 appellations, and 103 producers, the wines were separated only by color, resulting in a free-for-all of passionate judgment. Armed only with a glass, a spit bucket, a few pieces of baguette, and a pen, our tasters tackled row after row of anonymous specimens marked with Post-its. If a judge liked what she sipped, the wine received a check mark and moved on to the next round. Wines that made it through to the finals were then carefully tasted for fruit characteristics, acidity, alcohol, balance, tannins, and overall quality, with every decision surrounded by plenty of healthy debate. The result? Our list of Oregon’s 50 most lovable wines available right now. —Allison Jones

The List

IF LOVE IS BLIND, falling for a great wine should happen sight unseen. For this biannual feature, our marathon wine tastings were conducted over four days, fully blind, with hundreds of brown-bagged bottles hiding their stories and secrets from our panelists’ discerning noses and palates. Spanning four years’ worth of vintages, 19 varietals, 15 appellations, and 103 producers, the wines were separated only by color, resulting in a free-for-all of passionate judgment. Armed only with a glass, a spit bucket, a few pieces of baguette, and a pen, our tasters tackled row after row of anonymous specimens marked with Post-its. If a judge liked what she sipped, the wine received a check mark and moved on to the next round. Wines that made it through to the finals were then carefully tasted for fruit characteristics, acidity, alcohol, balance, tannins, and overall quality, with every decision surrounded by plenty of healthy debate. The result? Our list of Oregon’s 50 most lovable wines available right now. —Allison Jones

The List

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Rating 96

No. 1

Soter Vineyards

2008 Pinot Noir Mineral SpringsYamhill-Carlton, $85

This reserve pinot noir from Soter's estate vineyard, Mineral Springs Ranch, reflects Tony Soter's lifelong pursuit of the "winemaker's signature." The full-bodied, balanced wine captures a true sense of place and time—the vineyard's well-draining siltstone soils stood up to the wet spring of 2008 and the hilltop's slope captured the warm fall that followed, resulting in even ripening and ideal acid balance. Thanks to a week of extended maceration—contact with grape skins and stems after fermentation—this wine's soft tannins and silky, full texture make a perfect vehicle for the lush flavors of ripe black cherries, rose petals, and a whole spice rack full of herbs, cloves, and peppers. Such a quality wine will improve for over a decade, but the Mineral Springs' bright acidity and intense fruit make it absolutely delicious right now.

Rating 95

No. 2

Utopia Vineyard

2008 Pinot Noir Utopia VineyardRibbon Ridge, $38

Utopia's Daniel Warnshuis took a gamble in 2008, waiting to harvest until the last possible moment to allow his grapes to ripen to their fullest flavor. That gamble paid off in this gorgeous wine, rich with flavors of sweet cherry, sarsaparilla, rose petals, and ripe blackberries. Dark and dense with silky tannins, oaky creaminess, and an extremely long and satisfying finish, this expertly made wine was built to last.

Rating 94

No. 3

1789 Wines

2008 Pinot Noir Single VineyardChehalem Mountains, $48

Grapes for this refined wine were hand-selected and gently processed to bring out maximum fruit aromatics and a deep red color. The rich, balanced wine is lush with flavors of red berries, leather, and black pepper that combine with silky tannins and a long, toffee-noted finish for a sensual sip.

No. 4

Daedalus Cellars

2008 Pinot Noir Maresh VineyardDundee Hills, $60

One of the oldest plantings in the Dundee Hills, Maresh Vineyard produces grapes with juicy, bright fruit and herb flavors and a clean structure that combine into a lively, balanced wine. Rich with strawberry, orange blossom, and black pepper notes, this small-production vintage—only 146 cases—is sure to go fast.

No. 5

Andrew Rich

2009 Pinot Noir PreludeWillamette Valley, $22

Our top wallet-friendly wine features a beautiful blend of floral notes and bright cherry flavors that linger on the palate. One of the premier wines from the Carlton Winemaker's Studio, Andrew Rich's Prelude is refreshing, light, and full with balanced acidity and soft tannins that will pair well with a wide variety of foods.

Rating 93

No. 6

Broadley Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir Claudia's Choice Willamette Valley, $50

Made from a selection of fruit from Broadley's oldest vineyard, this wine is elegant, earthy, and mature. With up-front flavors of dark chocolate and black pepper, Claudia's Choice is softened by juicy notes of black cherry. Beautifully balanced with a long finish, this wine is robust and tannic.

No. 7

ROCO winery

2008 Pinot Noir Private Stash No. 6Chehalem Mountains, $70

The late harvest of 2008 shines through with ripe fruit flavor, balanced acidity, and developed yet soft tannins. This wine is creamy and lush with sweet spices—think cinnamon, cloves, and allspice—and ripe berries, like a late-summer fruit cobbler in a glass.

No. 8

Thistle

2008 Pinot Noir Dundee Hills,  $28

Rich, red volcanic soils and organic vines shine through in the earthy flavors of this 2008 pinot's creamy, smooth finish. With plush flavors of sweet strawberry jam, dried cherries, and rich dark chocolate, this wine begs to be paired with duck or game.

Rating 92

No. 9

Rex Hill Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, $33

Though Rex Hill uses "small" fermenters, there is nothing small about this wine. With aromatics bursting with roses, currants, and strawberries and flavors of fried plums, smoke, and spice, this is a big wine with strong tannins and a long, complex finish. While some pinots shine primarily through their scent, this wine is excellent on both nose and palate.

No.10

Bergström wines

2009 Pinot Noir de LancellottiChehalem Mountains, $60

The well-draining soils of the Chehalem Mountains lend pinot noir a graceful, slow development that shines in the bottle. This fruit-forward wine offers rich flavors of plum, ripe blackberries, sage, and spice. Powerful and dark, its balanced tannins and acidity combine for a smooth and enjoyable sip.

No. 11

Cameron

Vineyards 2009 Pinot NoirDundee Hills, $25

Cameron wines are characterized by dry farming—using little to no irrigation—which allows them to highlight the unique characteristics of each vintage. Floral flavors and juicy red fruit on the tongue accent striking scents of dark cherries, hay, and leather. With strong tannins and mild acidity, this accessible bottle will be delightful for outdoor barbecues and nights on the porch.

No. 12

Matello

2009 Pinot Noir Souris Willamette Valley, $39

This delicious wine shows rich fruit depth with flavors of strawberry jam, berry cobbler, and brandied cherries. A long and strong finish allows those tasty flavors to linger. (See "Taster's Choice," p. 66.)

Rating 91

No.13

Eyrie Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir ReserveDundee Hills, $62

This complex wine spends nearly two years in barrel, showing developed sweet and savory qualities with flavors ranging from rare steak to ripe blueberries. Offering one of the longest finishes of the bunch, this light wine is clean, bright, and delicious.

No.14

Patton Valley Vineyards

2008 Pinot Noir Lorna-Marie Willamette Valley, $70

With heady fruit scents that jump out of the glass and complex flavors of allspice, vanilla, orange, and raspberry, this balanced, focused wine is soft and creamy. This bottle is also meant to age, and will deepen and soften over the next five years.

No.15

Broadley Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir ReserveWillamette Valley, $38

A select blend of the best barrels of Broadley's 777 clones, this carefully oaked wine is earthy and spiced, with a strong flavor of ripe, dark blackberries. The long finish and smooth texture of this unfiltered wine hint at its craftsmanship.

No.16

Luminous Hills

2009 Pinot Noir Estate GrownYamhill-Carlton, $28

Winemaker Byron Dooley (who also owns Seven of Hearts Winery) selected the best grapes from the Luminous Hills estate to bring out the herbal aromatics and juicy fruitiness of this perfumed wine. Native fermentation—using yeast naturally present on the grapes and in the air—lends an earthy, savory flavor that would pair well with grilled meats.

No.17

De Ponte cellars

2008 Pinot Noir Baldwin Family Reserve Dundee Hills, $70

This wine offers scents of coffee and caramel along with notes of blackberry and black currant, but is more earthy than fruit-forward. With balanced minerality and layers of flavor, this wine will pair well with hazelnuts, tomato-based Italian sauces, and chocolate.

{page break} Rating 90

No.18

Luminous Hills

2009 Pinot Noir Lux EstateYamhill-Carlton, $35

With only 147 cases produced, this wine highlights the best vines of the Luminous Hills vineyard. Heady with scents of raspberry, dry earth, and dried plum, this seductive pinot noir offers strong tannins and bright acidity for a powerful yet balanced glass.

No.19

Siltstone

2008 Pinot Noir Guadalupe VineyardDundee Hills, $28

This budget-friendly wine provides full-bodied flavors and a long finish, bursting with notes of strawberry, cherry, smoky spices, and cedar. Combining juicy flavors and outstanding value, this is a great choice for a potluck dinner or housewarming gift.

No.20

Et Fille

2008 Pinot Noir Nicholas VineyardChehalem Mountains, $34

Howard Mozeico and Jessica Mozeico-Blair—the father-daughter team behind Et Fille—make full-bodied pinot noir rich with earthy flavors that will pair well with lamb, mushrooms, and a wide variety of herbs. Notes of plum, smoked wood, and bright red cherries linger along with the bold texture.

No.21

Cristom vineyards

2008 Pinot Noir Jessie VineyardEola-Amity Hills, $50

This gently oaked pinot noir was made with Old World techniques such as wild yeast fermentation and minimal handling. Scents of spices, dried cherries, and leather make the unfiltered wine full-bodied and mature, while its earthiness and strong tannins will blossom after several years in the cellar.

No.22

Sokol Blosser

2008 Pinot NoirDundee Hills, $38

Sokol Blosser's 2008 offering is distinctive for its strong aromatics, rich flavors of black cherries and baker's chocolate, and long finish. Soft tannins and a refreshing lightness make this an easy-drinking wine that will continue to develop for at least 10 years.

No.23

Soter Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir North ValleyWillamette Valley, $30

Crafted from a diverse selection of grapes throughout the north Willamette Valley, this wine reveals winemaker James Cahill's focus on regional representation and sustainable farming. Flavors of tart pie cherries; a candied, bright style; and a super-clean finish place it on the lighter side of the pinot noir spectrum, which makes it a great pairing for fresh, spicy foods.

No.24

Willamette Valley Vineyards

2008 Pinot Noir Tualatin EstateWillamette Valley, $45

Made with fruit from the exclusive Tualatin Estate Vineyard, founded in 1973, this earthy wine shines with sweet, candied-fruit flavors of blackberry, cherry, and vanilla. Generous tannins, balanced minerality, and a smooth finish make this a bottle for deep contemplation and richer food pairings.

Rating 89

No.25

Bergström Wines

2009 Pinot Noir Bergström VineyardDundee Hills, $78

Sourced from 13 select acres in the Dundee Hills, this meaty wine is rich, dark, and full-bodied. Juicy flavors of cherries, espresso, raspberries, and caramel blend with gentle acids and satiny tannins to produce a structured wine with a sweet finish.

No.26

Daedalus Cellars

2008 Pinot Noir LabyrinthDundee Hills, $45

This delicate, floral wine combines juicy flavors and a medium-bodied, silky texture for a very drinkable vintage. Using a blend of grapes from Heron, Thistle, Maresh, and Murto vineyards, winemaker Aron Hess carefully selects the best barrels in the cellar to make this delicious wine.

No.27

Bethel Heights Vineyard

2008 Pinot Noir Justice VineyardEola-Amity Hills, $50

The Justice Vineyard is an Oregon Certified Sustainable wine, ensuring responsible growing and winemaking practices. This 2008 vintage's cherry fruit, soft tannins, and fresh acidity balance out floral notes and deeper aromatics of leather and earth. Juicy and bright, this is a pretty glass for easy sipping.

No.28

Brooks

2009 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, $22

This vibrant winery celebrates the dedication and passion of its late founder, Jimi Brooks, by producing high-quality biodynamic estate wines with heart. Blended from various pinot noir clones from throughout the Willamette Valley, this wine is deeply structured yet eminently drinkable, with flavors of coffee, caramel, earth, and ripe raspberry.

No.29

Ardiri winery & Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir Vineyard Select Estate GrownChehalem Mountains, $45

Fruit for this estate pinot noir was hand-selected, hand-sorted, and cold-soaked by winemaker John Compagno in open stainless steel fermentation tanks to extract maximum color and flavor. Rich with oak notes, candied red fruit, and complex cola flavors, the results are robust yet balanced.

Rating 88

No.30

Luminous Hills

2009 Pinot Noir Astra EstateYamhill-Carlton, $35

Winemaker Byron Dooley's Astra uses a higher percentage of "whole cluster fermentation" than its sister wine from the Lux estate, which means brighter fruit flavors and an added spiciness. Emitting the aroma of dried flowers, herbs, and raspberries, this wine has enough tannic structure to develop for several years.

No.31

Siltstone

2007 Pinot Noir Guadalupe VineyardDundee Hills, $26

Bright flavors of cherry, strawberry, and a hint of cedar round out a beautiful wine harvested in the midst of October rainstorms. Made with grapes from a single old-vine vineyard on the west slope of the Dundee Hills, this wine shows the talent and perseverance of winegrowers in a tough year. Discover the difference a year can make: grab a bottle of the 2008 Guadalupe Vineyard for your own at-home vertical tasting.

No.32

Bethel Heights Vineyard

2008 Pinot Noir Casteel ReserveEola-Amity Hills, $60

Fully destemming the grapes before fermentation (stems mean strong tannins) lent great fruit concentration to the finished product of this ripe, lush pinot noir. A mild, bright, and easy-drinking wine, this will be delicious with hearty fall dishes like root vegetable stews and braised lamb.

No.33

Matello

2009 Pinot Noir LazarusWillamette Valley, $19

This budget-friendly pinot is ready to drink and full of juicy, ripe fruit flavors. Uncomplicated, pretty, and with enough earthiness and complexity to keep things exciting, this clear, unfussy wine is a great choice for fall.

No.34

Domaine Serene

2007 Pinot Noir Evenstad ReserveDundee Hills, $58

The latest vintage of Domaine Serene's flagship wine leaps out of the glass with scents of cherry, raspberry, and toasted spices. Silky tannins, a smooth, long finish, and a savory edge make this a lovely bottle for easy drinking and food pairing.

No.35

Et Fille

2009 Pinot Noir Maresh VineyardDundee Hills, $42

The storied Maresh Vineyard has been producing quality pinot noir grapes since 1984, and continues to lend the balanced strength of old vines to Et Fille's 2009 vintage. Bright tannins draw out flavors of red cherries, black currants, and plums.

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WHITES

Rating 95

No. 1

Evening Land ?Vineyards

2009 Chardonnay Seven Springs Vineyard La SourceEola-Amity Hills,$60

A collaboration between winemaker Isabelle Meunier and consulting winemaker Dominique Lafon, this wine is the result of a perfect storm of conscious viticulture, a merciful growing season, and a touch of magic. With layer upon layer of flavor—bright Meyer lemon, apple blossom, ripe Asian pear, and subtle spice, with well-blended caramel notes from careful oak aging—this wine has it all. Balanced, rich, and bright with crisp fruit, it is the quintessential expression of Oregon’s new chardonnay. Meunier honed her skills in Burgundy, New Zealand, and her native Canada before ?arriving in Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills region outside of Salem, where grapes for La Source are carefully grown and hand-selected.

Rating 94

No.2

Bethel Heights Vineyard

2009 Chardonnay Estate GrownEola-Amity Hills, $25

Using a blend of Dijon and old-vine Wente clones, this classic chardonnay shows a welcome balance of richness and bright acidity. The best of the old-school Oregon style, this rich, golden wine marries minerality and flavors of ripe pineapple and lemon zest, resulting in a smooth palate that’s full-bodied and perfumed but never cloying.

No.3

Ponzi Vineyards

2008 Chardonnay ReserveWillamette Valley,$30

2008 wasn’t just a great year for pinot noir. The cool spring and Indian summer of that storied vintage also resulted in chardonnays that continue to impress. In this smooth-textured, golden wine, rich oak notes are balanced by bright acidity and fresh flavors of lemon curd and thyme. Pair with poached halibut, earthy mushrooms, and fava beans.

No.4

Brooks

2008 Riesling Ara ? Willamette Valley, $25

Named after the altar that Noah built after the Flood, this riesling is the praise-worthy result of a tumultuous year. With heady scents of rose petals and apple and juicy flavors of peach, apricot, and kiwi, this bright and refreshing wine was featured at President Obama’s first White House State Dinner, paired with red lentil soup.

No.5

Lange Estate winery & vineyards

2010 Pinot Gris Reserve?Willamette Valley,$20

Don Lange was the first American winemaker to produce barrel-fermented pinot gris, and this legacy shines through in his son Jesse’s latest vintage. Oak barreling lends richness to the wine’s bright notes of green apple, honey, and lemon zest. Full-bodied from the first sip to the lingering finish, this wine will pair well with Mexican cuisine.

Rating 91

No.6

Raptor Ridge

2010 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley,$18

For fans of traditional Oregon pinot gris, winemaker Scott Shull’s latest vintage will certainly satisfy. Featuring clean scents of apple blossoms and tangerine, sweet flavors of pears and Meyer lemon, bright acidity, and a juicy finish, this wine will pair well with clams in garlic butter or grilled salmon.

No.7

Stoller Vineyards

2008 Chardonnay SV EstateDundee Hills, $28

The warm fall of 2008 allowed plenty of time for grapes to fully ripen, lending the vintage a lush, complex, and fruit-forward character. This creamy wine is packed with flavors of almonds, brioche, and baked apples, with a full body that will hold its own when paired with richer dishes like herb-roasted chicken, cheesy pasta, or creamy soups.

No.8

Adelsheim ?Vineyard

2010 Auxerrois Ribbon Ridge,$22

David Adelsheim imported Oregon’s first vines of Auxerrois (pronounced oak-sair-wah) in the late ’70s, but the varietal remains relatively unknown despite its success in Oregon’s cool soils. Bursting with scents of orange blossom, tropical fruit flavors, and bright acidity, this refreshing wine will pair perfectly with crab salad, ceviche, or cured salmon.

No.9

Teutonic Wine Co

2010 RieslingWillamette Valley, $15

This small-production winery—offering only 126 cases of its 2010 riesling—is known for its high-acid, low-alcohol wines that are truly food-friendly. With soft notes of peaches, strawberry, and rose petals, this light wine begs to be paired with oysters or any fresh, briny seafood.

Rating 90

No.10

Elk Cove ?Vineyards

2010 Pinot GrisWillamette Valley,$18

With scents of sweet pear and almonds, fresh acidity, and flavors of baking spice and ripe peaches that linger on the palate, Elk Cove’s 2010 estate pinot gris is a definite crowd pleaser. This food-friendly wine from one of Oregon’s oldest wineries will be delicious with a citrus salad and fresh chèvre.

Rating 89

No.11

Amity Vineyards

2008 Dry ?Gewürztraminer Sunnyside VineyardWillamette Valley,$20

This traditional golden gewürztraminer is rich, fruit-forward, and intense, with flavors of lychee, Asian pear, and fresh green herbs. Though labeled “dry,” this wine offers a bright sweetness through complex fruit flavors, and will perfectly calm the heat of spicy Thai food.

No.12

Love and ?Squalor

2010 RieslingWillamette Valley,$18

Matt Berson’s zesty riesling—made with organic grapes—is sweet, lush, and refreshing, offering flavors of peaches and mangoes for a balanced palate that’d be a perfect picnic sipper. Pack a backpack with a baguette, smoked salmon, Peppadew peppers, and a corkscrew, and you’re set for a wonderful meal.

Rating 88

No.13

J. Albin Winery

2010 Pinot GrisWillamette Valley,$15

Bright flavors of ripe pear and white peaches, notes of buttery almond, and a peppery spiciness blend together for a rich palate that lingers and tempts you to keep sipping. Pair with melon and goat cheese salads, thin-sliced cured meats, and fresh peaches.

No.14

Brooks

2010 Riesling Sweet P RieslingWillamette Valley,$22

Named for the winery’s 15-year-old owner, Pascal, this fun, casual wine has a bright, sparkling sweetness balanced by juicy acidity. Bursting with flavors of honeydew, peaches, and lilac, Sweet P will be a hit at any potluck. But bring a few bottles: it’ll go fast.

No.15

The Four Graces

2010 Pinot GrisWillamette Valley,$18

Stainless steel fermentation lends a clean subtlety to this silky wine from the Red Hills of Dundee. Bursting with citrus and green apple notes, this bright, lean pinot gris will pair well with pasta, fresh basil, and spicy Italian sausage.

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Taster’s Choice

Our expert panel of judges offered up pairing menus for four of our top wines.

1. Randy Goodman

2009 Cameron Vineyards Pinot Noir $25

Image: Lincoln Barbour

Tasting Notes:The ’09 bottling from John Paul at Cameron Winery shows the trademarks of his winemaking style—a perfect balance between earth and fruit. Aromas of Bing cherry and volcanic soils mix with flavors of ripe blackberry, cinnamon, and just a touch of good funk, making this wine easy and fun to drink.

Menu:

• Smoked salmon crostini, chickpeas, olivada
• Pork chops, grilled cherries, farro, summer squash
• Strawberry crêpes with mint and lemon curd

2. Erica Landon

2009 Andrew Rich Prelude Pinot Noir $22

Image: Lincoln Barbour

Tasting Notes:This bottle is Andrew Rich’s flagship pinot noir, a barrel selection from his cellar. The wine shows poise and complexity that reflect his (rather mysterious) personality, with layers of black cherries, plum, and a hint of spice.

Menu:

• Veal sweetbreads, poached plum, sautéed kale
• Beef osso bucco, Yukon gold purée, baby carrots
• Blackberry financier, blackberry compote, crème fraîche

3. Jessica Pierce

2008 Brooks Ara Riesling $25

Image: Lincoln Barbour

Tasting Notes:This year is all about Oregon riesling, and the refreshing offerings from Brooks wines are outstanding. This wine bursts with flavors of juicy white peach and savory herbs, with a touch of stony minerality and ripping acidity to finish.

Menu:

• Field greens salad with cucumber, radish, and fresh herbs
• Wood-fired ruby trout, Bavarian spiced
• Rainbow carrots sautéed with mint and butter

4. Todd Steele

2009 Matello Souris Pinot Noir $19

Image: Lincoln Barbour

Tasting Notes:Marcus Goodfellow’s wines have increasingly become more complete, with growing complexity in glasses that are often stunning. The Matello Souris is a perfect example of this: its layers of red cherries, plum, freshly turned earth, and hints of flowers create a perfect companion to Oregon’s fall flavors.

Menu:

• Smoked trout and PBR-braised pork belly, warm potatoes, cucumbers
• Confit of duck leg with spinach and lentil salad
• Crémeux de Bourgogne cheese, candied cherries, truffle salted pistachios

Image: Jason Blackheart

Ready for a cold one? You’re in the right place. Since the first craft breweries and brewpubs in the city opened a mere 25 years ago, Portland has been, hands-down, the nation’s best city for beer. And with plenty of ales and lagers fermenting in other towns across the state, Oregon may be home to a few runners-up, too. To help you pick your pints, we’ve put together an essential guide: the Portland area’s top brewpubs and bottle shops, the brewers to keep an eye on, and, of course, two 12-packs that showcase the state’s most delicious beers. We even included pithy advice on everything from beer tastings to which suds to take to a cookout. Here’s to you, Portland! May your hops ever wave.

Image: Kate Madden

 
Welcome to a new era of Oregon wine. Gone is the total domination of pinot noir’s old (and new) guard. Sure, our signature grape remains a mainstay of any best-of list, but it finds itself among an ever-livelier crowd of gamay, rosé, and Auxerrois produced in Oregon’s idyllic vineyards.

Over two weeks of marathon tasting sessions—every label concealed from the judges’ view—our panel of local wine experts sampled bottles from wineries large and (very) small, and producers both young and seasoned. The resulting list of 50 wines is a snapshot of Oregon’s state of the art, circa 2012. Best of all, more than half of the bottles are under $30.

It’s a whole new world, and it’s delicious.

Our Judges

 Dana Frank

Image: Mei Ratz

 After honing her palate as assistant wine steward for New Seasons Market and as wine director at 23Hoyt, Clarklewis, and Grüner, Frank has launched an enviable list of little-known international varietals as wine director at Riffle NW, the Pearl District’s new seafood hot spot. Frank also co-owns Bow & Arrow Wines with her husband, Scott Frank, producing Loire Valley varietals in the Willamette Valley.

Michael Garofola

Image: Mei Ratz

As manager and sommelier of Southeast Portland’s Genoa Restaurant, Garofola has earned a reputation for spinning behind-the-wines yarns as part of his genial tableside service. Garofola earned his wine expert badges in the trenches at Portland’s lauded Ten-01, Tabla Bistro, and at New Mexico’s James Beard Award–winning restaurant the Compound.

Savanna Ray 

Image: Mei Ratz

 Sommelier at Wildwood Restaurant and jet-setting instructor with the International Sommelier Guild, Ray’s passion for wine is on display across the West Coast and beyond. Ray also serves on the board of directors for the International Pinot Noir Celebration and runs wine service for Salud Auction, which provides access to health care for Oregon’s vineyard workers and their families.

David Speer

Image: Mei Ratz

A certified sommelier with a passion for education, Speer has owned and operated Portland’s Red Slate Wine Company since 2008, offering fine wines with a casual flair (read: un-snobby and affordable). In 2011, Speer opened Ambonnay—the first champagne and sparkling wine bar in the Pacific Northwest—in Portland’s Central Eastside.

 

 

 

Slide Show Check out behind-the-scenes photos from our judges’ tasting sessions

Pinot Noir

1. White Rose Estate Winery | 2010 Pinot Noir
98 Points

Dundee Hills Apellation Series
Dundee Hills, $45

Image: Kate Madden

Sourced from three vineyards perched on the Dundee Hills’ east- and southeast-facing volcanic slopes, this world-class wine showcases the remarkable trajectory of winemaker Jesus Guillen’s career. Guillen began as a vineyard worker in 2002, but his sophisticated palate and passion for the art of enology launched him into the role of head winemaker in 2008. Since then, his balanced, elegant, and complex wines have earned him a respected place among the state’s wine elite. With rich flavors of cherry compote, baking spices, mushroom, and dill—a surprising element of the classic Oregon pinot flavor profile—along with a savory earthiness, this wine drinks beautifully right now, and will age well for at least five to seven years.

2. White Rose Estate Winery |
2010 Pinot Noir
 98 Points

White Rose Vineyard
Dundee Hills, $70

Thanks to Guillen’s winemaking prowess and owner Greg Sanders’s long-standing love of elegant whole-cluster wines, White Rose has produced a lineup worthy of both of the top spots on this year’s list. Grapes from the four oldest blocks of the hilltop White Rose estate vineyard (planted in 1980) were selected for this intense, weighty wine with notes of cinnamon sticks, cedar, wet leaves, and ripe red fruit. This gorgeous whole-cluster–fermented wine was processed with the winery’s signature old-world wooden basket presses to ensure soft tannins and delicate aromatics with a long, satisfying finish.

3. Elk Cove Vineyards | 2010 Pinot Noir
 97 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $27

This beautiful, inexpensive pinot delivers what fans around the world think of as a classic Oregon version, with bold aromatics of black cherry and truffle that seem to jump right out of the glass. From one of Oregon’s pioneering wineries—boasting a legacy of nearly four decades of great wine—it offers luscious flavors of ripe red cranberries, raspberries, and cherries characteristic of 2010’s late-hanging harvest.

4. St. Innocent Winery | 2010 Pinot Noir
 97 Points

Zenith Vineyard
Eola-Amity Hills, $36

With heady scents of blackberry pie, campfire smoke, and black tea, this complex single-vineyard wine develops an earthy, floral undertone on the palate. It’s rounded out with soft tannins and great acidity that allow for both easy drinking now and development over time—guaranteed to please both the adventurous oenophile and the novice.

5. Willamette Valley Vineyards | 2009 Pinot Noir
 95 Points

Estate
Willamette Valley, $45

Winemaker Don Crank selected the best barrels from Willamette Valley Vineyard’s sustainably grown vine blocks to create this lush and complex wine, offering aromas of grapefruit, plum, and cherries with multilayered flavors of Campari and orange peel. There’s enough spice, tang, and acid to rejuvenate anyone craving a truly different kind of pinot.

6. Atticus Wine | 2009 Pinot Noir
 95 Points

Atticus Vineyard
Yamhill-Carlton, $42

Owned by two passionate, diverse families—with roots in Hong Kong, Peru, Ireland, Greece, and Paris—Atticus Wine applies a worldly approach to Oregon terroir. This bottle’s complex aromas of dark fruit, Asian spices, and sesame oil deliver a silky-textured, layered palate, dark and deep and with just enough acid to keep things bright.

Image: Kate Madden

 7. Walter Scott | 2010 Pinot Noir
 95 Points

Holstein Vineyard
Dundee Hills, $38

A labor of love from top local wine experts Erica Landon and Ken Pahlow, this small-production wine shines with the 2010 vintage’s unique flavors of Campari, cranberries, orange zest, raspberries, and rose hips. Aged for 15 months in French oak—30 percent new—this elegant, unfiltered wine perfectly balances sweet and bitter notes for a sophisticated sip.

Image: Kate Madden

 8. Apolloni Vineyards | 2009 Pinot Noir
 94 Points • Best Buy

Estate
Willamette Valley, $26

The Apolloni estate vineyard’s south-facing slopes are carefully cultivated for low yields of complex, sustainably grown fruit. The 2009 vintage benefited from a warm, dry fall that allowed for the development of lush, ripe grapes. They infuse this unusual wine with flavors of dried fruit, tea leaves, and dried roses.

9. Tyee Wine Cellars | 2009 Pinot Noir
 94 Points • Best Buy

Estate
Willamette Valley, $24

Brooding yet balanced, Tyee showcases the darker side of pinot noir, with firm tannins, shadowy floral scents, and flavors of cranberry, bitter orange, and black cherry. Its complexity results from the unique blend of grapes from the estate vineyard’s young and old vines.

10. Evesham Wood Vineyard | 2010 Pinot Noir
 94 Points

Le Puits Sec Vineyard
Eola-Amity Hills, $36

Boasting aromas of pomegranate and black currant, this pinot’s nose is soft and delicate. Dried lavender accents flavors of ripe red fruit and a savory midpalate. Sourced from the eastern side of the Eola-Amity Hills ridge, known for its shallow volcanic basalt soils and low fruit yield, this wine is certified as organically grown by Oregon Tilth.

11. Hawks View Cellars | 2010 Pinot Noir
93 Points

Hawks View Vineyard
Chehalem Mountains, $35

A select blend of sustainably farmed grapes from the Hawks View estate vineyard results in a balanced wine, marked by aromas of violets and plum. Strong but well-integrated tannins round out flavors of marionberry and chocolate for a bold but elegant glass.

12. Haden Fig | 2010 Pinot Noir
 93 Points • Best Buy

Cancilla Vineyard
Willamette Valley, $30

This bright and tangy selection is perfect for pairing with Oregon seafood. With an herbaceous nose boasting notes of dill, orange peel, and raspberry, it develops into a gorgeous dark-fruit palate with a touch of minerality, bright acid, and a long, pure finish.

13. Ardiri Winery | 2009 Pinot Noir
 91 Points

Willamette Valley
Chehalem Mountains, $34

The only wine on our list to make an appearance two years running, this estate pinot noir continues to impress with its rich flavors of cassis, dark cherry, and black pepper, balanced by big, luscious tannins. A note of menthol on the finish adds a refreshing touch to a deliciously dark wine.

14. Utopia Vineyard | 2009 Pinot Noir
 91 Points

Paradise Private Reserve
Ribbon Ridge, $55

Utopia owner Daniel Warnshuis’s first private reserve release is a lush garnet beauty presenting bold flavors of rose petals and ripe red fruit. The single-vineyard wine’s elegant tannins and spirited acidity balance with complex spice.

15. Lazy River Vineyard | 2009 Pinot Noir
 90 Points

Lumpkin Family Estate
Yamhill-Carlton, $36

This robust wine showcases the savory side of the versatile pinot noir grape with big, balanced flavors of soy sauce, truffles, dry earth, blackberries, and dried flowers on the palate. A long finish offers notes of barbecue smoke and charred meat.

Image: Kate Madden

 16. Tyee Wine Cellars | 2009 Pinot Noir
 90 Points

Estate Barrel Select
Willamette Valley, $35

Offering sweetly herbaceous aromas of fresh English peas, mint, and red plums on the nose, this pinot rounds out with ripe red cherries and a touch of vanilla on the palate. A bit shy out of the glass, it will develop into a true beauty within a few years.

17. Domaine Drouhin Oregon | 2009 Pinot Noir
 90 Points

Laurène
Dundee Hills, $65

A truly classic Oregon pinot noir: lightly oaked and luscious, it shines on the palate with notes of pure red cherries and black currants. Produced entirely with grapes from the Drouhin family estate in the Dundee Hills, it offers a vivid sense of place.

18. Adelsheim | 2010 Pinot Noir
 90 Points

Elizabeth’s Reserve
Willamette Valley, $55

This blend of estate and non-estate wines showcases the Willamette Valley in a single glass. Winemaker David Paige carefully selects the best characteristics from different soil types, clones, and barrel characteristics for a wine that’s satisfying and extremely drinkable, with flavors of bright raspberry and soft, musky cedar.

19. David Hill | 2009 Pinot Noir
 89 Points

Winemakers Cuvée
Willamette Valley, $50

The first signature cuvée from winemaker Jason Bull, this big, bold pinot bursts with lush flavors of blackberries and dark plums. Thanks to its full-bodied profile and robust tannins, it will hold its own against bold dishes like grilled meats.

20. Libra | 2008 Pinot Noir
 89 Points

Momtazi Vineyard
Willamette Valley, $35

Complex and slightly heavy aromas of anise and dried dark fruits give way to a surprisingly lively palate with plenty of acid and bright red-fruit flavors.

  Slide Show: Behind the Scenes of the 2012 Wine Tasting

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Other Reds

Image: Kate Madden

 1. Division Winemaking Company | 2011 Gamay Noir
 94 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $20

Forget what you know about gamay: this beauty is no cheap Beaujolais nouveau! Thomas and Kate Monroe (members of the new Southeast Wine Collective) are leading a gamay brigade, aiming to bring this delicious varietal to more of Oregon’s vineyard slopes. Aged five months in neutral French oak, this well-balanced, tannic, and sophisticated cherry-red wine carries both the fresh berry and spicy white-pepper notes that characterize the upper echelon of the varietal.

2. Teutonic Wine Company | 2010 Pinot Meunier
 94 Points • Best Buy

Borgo Pass Vineyard
Willamette Valley, $22

One of the traditional components of Champagne blends, pinot meunier enjoys a solo performance in this pale red wine, showing off its ripe cherry and pomegranate flavors and a smoky, earthy edge. Though the grape is rarely grown outside of Europe, Teutonic’s Barnaby and Olga Tuttle make the most of Oregon’s few plots of pinot meunier to create this easy-drinking, one-of-a-kind wine.

3. God King Slave Wines | 2009 Syrah-Tempranillo
 93 Points • Best Buy

Rogue Valley, $26

God King Slave’s young owners, Chris Jiron and Christine Collier, are tireless champions of Southern Oregon wine, believing that the region’s diversity and climate will broaden the state’s international wine reputation. (Their motto: “Create like a God. Command like a King. Work like a Slave.”) With their first vintage of this herbaceous, meaty, and compelling syrah-tempranillo blend, they’re on their way.

4. Tesóaria Vineyards | 2010 Barbera
 91 Points

Southern Oregon, $35

Bursting with the lush flavors of red and dark blue fruit, a food-friendly acidity, and a savory backbone through the palate, this easy-drinking, hand-harvested wine hails from the Olson family’s sustainably farmed winery on the banks of the Umpqua River.

5. Bryn Mawr | 2009 Tempranillo 
 91 Points

Image: Kate Madden

 Eola-Amity Hills, $35

The Bryn Mawr estate—one of the few in the Willamette Valley to successfully grow tempranillo—is perched high above the valley floor, where cool afternoon breezes preserve the acidity and freshness of the fruit. The result: a bold wine that balances the classic tempranillo characteristics of plum and dark cherry with smoky coffee notes and vivacious acidity.

6. Glaser Estate Winery | 2011 Malbec
 90 Points • Best Buy

Southern Oregon, $28

Recalling the bright, floral malbecs of France’s Loire Valley, this fresh and richly colored wine sparkles with flavors of tart cherry and grapefruit zest, plus a touch of stony minerality.

7. Folin Cellars | 2008 Estate Tempranillo
 90 Points • Best Buy

Folin Vineyards
Rogue Valley, $30

Southern Oregon’s hot summer days and cool nights provide ideal conditions for warm-climate varietals like tempranillo, as this wine gracefully proves. Dark and full-bodied, Folin’s rich wine boasts deep, spicy black-fruit flavors and well-integrated tannins lightened by fresh acidity and a delicate floral overtone.

8. Styring Vineyards | 2008 Petit Verdot-Cabernet Sauvignon
 90 Points

Reckless Red Blend
Columbia Valley, $35

The only wine on our list sourced from Columbia Valley vineyards, this well-balanced blend of warm-climate varietals offers a unique flavor profile studded with Indian spices, lush blackberries, dark plums, and fresh grape skins.

Image: Kate Madden

 9. TeSóSria Vineyards | 2010 Syrah
 89 Points

Southern Oregon, $35

Medium-bodied and lively, TeSóAria’s ruby red holds flavors of savory spice, black pepper, and roasted meats, with a lingering note of barbecue smoke on the finish. Notes of ripe raspberry and chocolate balance the wine’s intriguing savory characteristics.

10. J. Scott Cellars | 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
 89 Points • Best Buy

Rogue Valley, $28

Southern Oregon’s sunny Rogue Valley averages 10 inches of rainfall annually—an ideal climate for big, juicy wines like this, that serve up generous fruit flavors of black currant with a base of pleasing spice and fresh violets.

Rosé

Image: Kate Madden

 1. Ribera Vineyards | 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir
 94 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $24

Darrel and Molly Roby’s small West Linn winery is quickly gaining acclaim for its delicate, thoughtful, and affordable wines. Copper-toned and shimmering with notes of fresh strawberry and watermelon, this food-friendly dry rosé is a dinner-party pleaser.

2. Domaine Drouhin Oregon | 2011 Pinot Noir Edition Rosé
 94 Points • Best Buy

Dundee Hills, $20

Made entirely from pinot noir grapes grown at the Domaine Drouhin estate vineyard, this breezy wine offers delicate flavors of rose petals and raspberries with a lively saline edge.

3. Abacela | 2011 Rosé of Grenache
 94 Points • Best Buy

Umpqua Valley, $15

The Spanish specialists at Abacela are revealing just how light and fresh warm-weather varietals can be. This delightful, dry rosé pulls you in with aromas of pomegranate and strawberries and hooks you with flavors of peaches, tart cherry, and zippy citrus.

4. Luminous Hills | 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir
 93 Points • Best Buy

Aura Estate
Yamhill-Carlton, $21

This sustainably farmed wine reveals the lighter side of pinot noir, balancing refreshing flavors of strawberries and melon with a subtle, earthy complexity. Winemaker Byron Dooley pulls off the wine after brief contact with the grapes’ plum-red skins—the “saignée method”—to achieve a lush hue and intensity.

5. Division Winemaking Company | 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir
 91 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $19

Inspired by the dry and structured rosés of France’s Loire Valley, this light salmon–colored wine showcases flavors of watermelon, green apple, and fresh peach.

Whites

Image: Kate Madden

 1. Crowley | 2010 Chardonnay
 96 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $24

A perfect example of the new Oregon chardonnay, with lively acid and light, well-integrated oak aging (25 percent new barrels), this bottle allows the passion fruit and stone fruit notes to shine. Using Wente and 108 clones from the lauded Four Winds Vineyard and Maresh Vineyard estates, owner/winemaker Tyson Crowley’s sustainably farmed and affordable wine shows just how delicious a light touch can be.

2. Amity Vineyards | 2010 Riesling
 96 Points • Best Buy

Wedding Dance
Willamette Valley, $17

Bursting out of the glass with aromas of honeysuckle, lemon zest, and sweet white flowers, Amity’s Wedding Dance offers touches of petrol and flint that characterize a classic Riesling—a joyous effort sure to convert Riesling skeptics into fanatics.

3. Stoller Vineyards | 2010 Chardonnay Reserve
 95 Points • Best Buy

Dundee Hills, $28

Sourced from Stoller’s Dundee Hills estate vineyard, this complex, rich, and silky Dijon clone chardonnay showcases aromas of citrus zest and honey, with flavors of nectarine and pear edged with a hint of white pepper.

4. Teutonic Wine Company | 2011 Riesling
 95 Points • Best Buy

Crow Valley “December Third”
Willamette Valley, $27

Oregon’s irreverent Riesling ringleaders offer up a refreshing blend of bright aromas, bracing acidity, and well-balanced flavors of green apple, orange peel, kiwi, and a stony minerality.

5. Four Graces | 2011 Pinot Blanc
 94 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $24

A quintessential pinot gris, this bright, crisp bottle delivers aromas of orange flower, star fruit, almond, and apricot, with a perfectly pretty palate of key limes and sweet apples.

6. Pyrenees Vineyard | 2009 Gewürztraminer
 93 Points • Best Buy

Umpqua Valley, $20

This aromatic, off-dry wine sparkles with scents of peach and crisp apple. Though the grape typically grows best in cold climates, the hot summer days of the Umpqua Valley give it a lush fullness on the palate, tasting of melon, honey, and pears.

7. Ponzi Vineyards | 2009 Chardonnay Reserve
 93 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $30

By using the Dijon clones best suited for the Willamette Valley’s cooler vintages, Luisa Ponzi has conjured a rich wine with complex layers of citrus, orange blossom, and a touch of caramel—and a long, satisfying finish.

8. Adelsheim | 2011 Auxerrois
 92 Points • Best Buy

Ribbon Ridge, $22

Home to one of the first plantings of Auxerrois—pronounced oak-sair-wah—in Oregon, Adelsheim continues to produce the best example of this largely unknown varietal. Balanced by notes of pear, pineapple, and orange blossom, its bracing acidity is as fresh as can be.

Image: Kate Madden

 9. Winderlea | 2010 Chardonnay
 92 Points

Willamette Valley, $36

This classic, sustainably farmed chardonnay showcases well-integrated oak and flavors of peach and apricot blossom, gaining depth with each sip for a refreshing tartness on the finish.

10. Solena Estate | 2011 Pinot Gris
 92 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $20

Bursting with flavors of red apple, passion fruit, and orange blossom, this pretty wine gets a fruit-forward, juicy flavor boost from an addition of 6 percent gewürztraminer.

11. Penner-Ash | 2011 Viognier
 91 Points • Best Buy

Oregon, $30

Fermented exclusively in stainless steel tanks, this crisp and complex Rhone-style wine is ultra-refreshing, with vibrant acidity, floral aromas, and flavors of white peach, lychee, ginger, and cardamom.

12. Owen Roe | 2011 Pinot Gris
 90 Points • Best Buy

Crawford Beck
Eola-Amity Hills, $21

Luscious and balanced, Eola-Amity Hills’ true-to-type pinot gris features well-integrated acid and tangy-sweet tangerine flavors. Its breezy salinity begs to be paired with raw oysters or fresh crab.

13. Teutonic Wine Company | 2011 Riesling
 90 Points • Best Buy

Medici Vineyard
Chehalem Mountains, $19

Teutonic’s light and subtle old-vine wine is layered with delicate aromas of candied lemon zest and orange blossom—ideal for a picnic, paired with a spread of finger foods.

14. Misty Oaks | 2011 Pinot Gris
 89 Points • Best Buy

Julio’s Hill
Umpqua Valley, $16

Meyer lemon, marzipan, and honeydew notes shine on the palate of a wine that conjures the word “tropical.” Soft and fruit-forward, the estate-grown selection offers a touch of earthiness to ground its rich, exotic flavors.

15. Matello | 2010 Chardonnay Richard’s Cuvée
 89 Points

Ribbon Ridge, $42

Lush and rich, Marcus Goodfellow’s balanced wine serves up tropical notes of pineapple and lemon curd with bracing acidity and a long, silky finish. A foundation of minerality recalls the grapes’ source: the Whistling Ridge vineyard’s dry-farmed vines.

FOROURFIRST Best of the City in almost four years, Portland Monthly’s intrepid “Team BOTC” scoured every nook and cranny of town. We toiled away, nibbling gourmet cheese plates, sampling carefully measured cocktails, browsing racks of locally made clothes, and—when absolutely necessary—ordering a spa treatment or two. We even went dancing.

Sacrifices were made (lest we forget things we tried that didn’t make the list). But overall, it was worth it to ensure that you, our readers, can find Portland’s A+ experiences in a flash.

Just in case we missed something, we consulted six celebrated local tastemakers who also offer their own favorites. And we asked you. (Don’t miss the readers’ picks.)

The unanimous conclusion? Portland has never been better.

FOOD | Readers’ Picks

SHOPPING | Readers’ Picks

DRINKS& NIGHTLIFE | Readers’ Picks

SERVICES | Readers’ Picks

DIVERSIONS | Readers’ Picks

FAMILY | Readers’ Picks

Image: Stuart Mullenberg

MASTERCLASS

IN 2004, NEWYORKCITY writer Ed Levine asked scribes around the country, including me, to define their town’s edible nirvana for his book Pizza: A Slice of Heaven. My contribution was grim: “Pizza does not drive datebooks in Portland. Does broccoli, much less Thai BBQ chicken, belong on a pizza?”

What a difference a few years make. By 2006, Portland earned legitimate stripes among geeky pie purists and populist eaters alike, as a new breed of obsessive pizza makers merged Old World techniques with new ideas about local sourcing and neighborhood vibes. As we celebrate our city’s pizza rinascimento, these four places define the new pie paradigm.

HIDDENGEMS

PIZZA IS HARDLYRARE. You can’t swing a salami in this town without hitting a middling cheese-and-grease parlor. But serious sleuths seek out the hidden pies—those that live quiet existences in the cozy corners of our fine-dining scene. They may not scream for attention with neon signs or toppings piled high, but these creations from some of the area’s savviest chefs certainly deserve notice.

P-TOWNSPECIALS

PIZZA IS UNIVERSAL. We know this. But for all of Portland’s reinventions of New York–style, Neapolitan, or Californified pies, there exist a few entries in the cheese-sauce-crust scene that could only happen here, amid the farms and firs—and, let’s face it, the frugal. And so we offer this homage to pizza places with “Portland” tattooed on their doughy little hearts. (With soy ink, no doubt.)

CLEVERCRUSTS

TO THEANCIENTS, nothing in geometry matched the circle’s perfection. In an age of pesto bases, pineapple slices, and taco toppings, even the most daring pie-lovers appreciate the traditional disc. Thus, instead of simply accumulating a more exotic or colossal tower of toppings (though they’re doing that, too), some Portlanders tweak—and in some cases reinvent—the wheel itself.

FAMILYFAVES

WITHITSBROADAPPEAL, pizza is the ultimate brood food. The finicky 5-year-old loves herself some meaty, saucy goodness; the exhausted parent appreciates a culinary genre associated with beer—but not with doing dishes. Whatever army you need to fuel, here are three very different takes the classic family pizza joint.

Image: Michael Novak, Kristen Kohashi

IF LOVE IS BLIND, falling for a great wine should happen sight unseen. For this biannual feature, our marathon wine tastings were conducted over four days, fully blind, with hundreds of brown-bagged bottles hiding their stories and secrets from our panelists’ discerning noses and palates. Spanning four years’ worth of vintages, 19 varietals, 15 appellations, and 103 producers, the wines were separated only by color, resulting in a free-for-all of passionate judgment. Armed only with a glass, a spit bucket, a few pieces of baguette, and a pen, our tasters tackled row after row of anonymous specimens marked with Post-its. If a judge liked what she sipped, the wine received a check mark and moved on to the next round. Wines that made it through to the finals were then carefully tasted for fruit characteristics, acidity, alcohol, balance, tannins, and overall quality, with every decision surrounded by plenty of healthy debate. The result? Our list of Oregon’s 50 most lovable wines available right now. —Allison Jones

The List

IF LOVE IS BLIND, falling for a great wine should happen sight unseen. For this biannual feature, our marathon wine tastings were conducted over four days, fully blind, with hundreds of brown-bagged bottles hiding their stories and secrets from our panelists’ discerning noses and palates. Spanning four years’ worth of vintages, 19 varietals, 15 appellations, and 103 producers, the wines were separated only by color, resulting in a free-for-all of passionate judgment. Armed only with a glass, a spit bucket, a few pieces of baguette, and a pen, our tasters tackled row after row of anonymous specimens marked with Post-its. If a judge liked what she sipped, the wine received a check mark and moved on to the next round. Wines that made it through to the finals were then carefully tasted for fruit characteristics, acidity, alcohol, balance, tannins, and overall quality, with every decision surrounded by plenty of healthy debate. The result? Our list of Oregon’s 50 most lovable wines available right now. —Allison Jones

The List

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Rating 96

No. 1

Soter Vineyards

2008 Pinot Noir Mineral SpringsYamhill-Carlton, $85

This reserve pinot noir from Soter's estate vineyard, Mineral Springs Ranch, reflects Tony Soter's lifelong pursuit of the "winemaker's signature." The full-bodied, balanced wine captures a true sense of place and time—the vineyard's well-draining siltstone soils stood up to the wet spring of 2008 and the hilltop's slope captured the warm fall that followed, resulting in even ripening and ideal acid balance. Thanks to a week of extended maceration—contact with grape skins and stems after fermentation—this wine's soft tannins and silky, full texture make a perfect vehicle for the lush flavors of ripe black cherries, rose petals, and a whole spice rack full of herbs, cloves, and peppers. Such a quality wine will improve for over a decade, but the Mineral Springs' bright acidity and intense fruit make it absolutely delicious right now.

Rating 95

No. 2

Utopia Vineyard

2008 Pinot Noir Utopia VineyardRibbon Ridge, $38

Utopia's Daniel Warnshuis took a gamble in 2008, waiting to harvest until the last possible moment to allow his grapes to ripen to their fullest flavor. That gamble paid off in this gorgeous wine, rich with flavors of sweet cherry, sarsaparilla, rose petals, and ripe blackberries. Dark and dense with silky tannins, oaky creaminess, and an extremely long and satisfying finish, this expertly made wine was built to last.

Rating 94

No. 3

1789 Wines

2008 Pinot Noir Single VineyardChehalem Mountains, $48

Grapes for this refined wine were hand-selected and gently processed to bring out maximum fruit aromatics and a deep red color. The rich, balanced wine is lush with flavors of red berries, leather, and black pepper that combine with silky tannins and a long, toffee-noted finish for a sensual sip.

No. 4

Daedalus Cellars

2008 Pinot Noir Maresh VineyardDundee Hills, $60

One of the oldest plantings in the Dundee Hills, Maresh Vineyard produces grapes with juicy, bright fruit and herb flavors and a clean structure that combine into a lively, balanced wine. Rich with strawberry, orange blossom, and black pepper notes, this small-production vintage—only 146 cases—is sure to go fast.

No. 5

Andrew Rich

2009 Pinot Noir PreludeWillamette Valley, $22

Our top wallet-friendly wine features a beautiful blend of floral notes and bright cherry flavors that linger on the palate. One of the premier wines from the Carlton Winemaker's Studio, Andrew Rich's Prelude is refreshing, light, and full with balanced acidity and soft tannins that will pair well with a wide variety of foods.

Rating 93

No. 6

Broadley Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir Claudia's Choice Willamette Valley, $50

Made from a selection of fruit from Broadley's oldest vineyard, this wine is elegant, earthy, and mature. With up-front flavors of dark chocolate and black pepper, Claudia's Choice is softened by juicy notes of black cherry. Beautifully balanced with a long finish, this wine is robust and tannic.

No. 7

ROCO winery

2008 Pinot Noir Private Stash No. 6Chehalem Mountains, $70

The late harvest of 2008 shines through with ripe fruit flavor, balanced acidity, and developed yet soft tannins. This wine is creamy and lush with sweet spices—think cinnamon, cloves, and allspice—and ripe berries, like a late-summer fruit cobbler in a glass.

No. 8

Thistle

2008 Pinot Noir Dundee Hills,  $28

Rich, red volcanic soils and organic vines shine through in the earthy flavors of this 2008 pinot's creamy, smooth finish. With plush flavors of sweet strawberry jam, dried cherries, and rich dark chocolate, this wine begs to be paired with duck or game.

Rating 92

No. 9

Rex Hill Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, $33

Though Rex Hill uses "small" fermenters, there is nothing small about this wine. With aromatics bursting with roses, currants, and strawberries and flavors of fried plums, smoke, and spice, this is a big wine with strong tannins and a long, complex finish. While some pinots shine primarily through their scent, this wine is excellent on both nose and palate.

No.10

Bergström wines

2009 Pinot Noir de LancellottiChehalem Mountains, $60

The well-draining soils of the Chehalem Mountains lend pinot noir a graceful, slow development that shines in the bottle. This fruit-forward wine offers rich flavors of plum, ripe blackberries, sage, and spice. Powerful and dark, its balanced tannins and acidity combine for a smooth and enjoyable sip.

No. 11

Cameron

Vineyards 2009 Pinot NoirDundee Hills, $25

Cameron wines are characterized by dry farming—using little to no irrigation—which allows them to highlight the unique characteristics of each vintage. Floral flavors and juicy red fruit on the tongue accent striking scents of dark cherries, hay, and leather. With strong tannins and mild acidity, this accessible bottle will be delightful for outdoor barbecues and nights on the porch.

No. 12

Matello

2009 Pinot Noir Souris Willamette Valley, $39

This delicious wine shows rich fruit depth with flavors of strawberry jam, berry cobbler, and brandied cherries. A long and strong finish allows those tasty flavors to linger. (See "Taster's Choice," p. 66.)

Rating 91

No.13

Eyrie Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir ReserveDundee Hills, $62

This complex wine spends nearly two years in barrel, showing developed sweet and savory qualities with flavors ranging from rare steak to ripe blueberries. Offering one of the longest finishes of the bunch, this light wine is clean, bright, and delicious.

No.14

Patton Valley Vineyards

2008 Pinot Noir Lorna-Marie Willamette Valley, $70

With heady fruit scents that jump out of the glass and complex flavors of allspice, vanilla, orange, and raspberry, this balanced, focused wine is soft and creamy. This bottle is also meant to age, and will deepen and soften over the next five years.

No.15

Broadley Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir ReserveWillamette Valley, $38

A select blend of the best barrels of Broadley's 777 clones, this carefully oaked wine is earthy and spiced, with a strong flavor of ripe, dark blackberries. The long finish and smooth texture of this unfiltered wine hint at its craftsmanship.

No.16

Luminous Hills

2009 Pinot Noir Estate GrownYamhill-Carlton, $28

Winemaker Byron Dooley (who also owns Seven of Hearts Winery) selected the best grapes from the Luminous Hills estate to bring out the herbal aromatics and juicy fruitiness of this perfumed wine. Native fermentation—using yeast naturally present on the grapes and in the air—lends an earthy, savory flavor that would pair well with grilled meats.

No.17

De Ponte cellars

2008 Pinot Noir Baldwin Family Reserve Dundee Hills, $70

This wine offers scents of coffee and caramel along with notes of blackberry and black currant, but is more earthy than fruit-forward. With balanced minerality and layers of flavor, this wine will pair well with hazelnuts, tomato-based Italian sauces, and chocolate.

{page break} Rating 90

No.18

Luminous Hills

2009 Pinot Noir Lux EstateYamhill-Carlton, $35

With only 147 cases produced, this wine highlights the best vines of the Luminous Hills vineyard. Heady with scents of raspberry, dry earth, and dried plum, this seductive pinot noir offers strong tannins and bright acidity for a powerful yet balanced glass.

No.19

Siltstone

2008 Pinot Noir Guadalupe VineyardDundee Hills, $28

This budget-friendly wine provides full-bodied flavors and a long finish, bursting with notes of strawberry, cherry, smoky spices, and cedar. Combining juicy flavors and outstanding value, this is a great choice for a potluck dinner or housewarming gift.

No.20

Et Fille

2008 Pinot Noir Nicholas VineyardChehalem Mountains, $34

Howard Mozeico and Jessica Mozeico-Blair—the father-daughter team behind Et Fille—make full-bodied pinot noir rich with earthy flavors that will pair well with lamb, mushrooms, and a wide variety of herbs. Notes of plum, smoked wood, and bright red cherries linger along with the bold texture.

No.21

Cristom vineyards

2008 Pinot Noir Jessie VineyardEola-Amity Hills, $50

This gently oaked pinot noir was made with Old World techniques such as wild yeast fermentation and minimal handling. Scents of spices, dried cherries, and leather make the unfiltered wine full-bodied and mature, while its earthiness and strong tannins will blossom after several years in the cellar.

No.22

Sokol Blosser

2008 Pinot NoirDundee Hills, $38

Sokol Blosser's 2008 offering is distinctive for its strong aromatics, rich flavors of black cherries and baker's chocolate, and long finish. Soft tannins and a refreshing lightness make this an easy-drinking wine that will continue to develop for at least 10 years.

No.23

Soter Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir North ValleyWillamette Valley, $30

Crafted from a diverse selection of grapes throughout the north Willamette Valley, this wine reveals winemaker James Cahill's focus on regional representation and sustainable farming. Flavors of tart pie cherries; a candied, bright style; and a super-clean finish place it on the lighter side of the pinot noir spectrum, which makes it a great pairing for fresh, spicy foods.

No.24

Willamette Valley Vineyards

2008 Pinot Noir Tualatin EstateWillamette Valley, $45

Made with fruit from the exclusive Tualatin Estate Vineyard, founded in 1973, this earthy wine shines with sweet, candied-fruit flavors of blackberry, cherry, and vanilla. Generous tannins, balanced minerality, and a smooth finish make this a bottle for deep contemplation and richer food pairings.

Rating 89

No.25

Bergström Wines

2009 Pinot Noir Bergström VineyardDundee Hills, $78

Sourced from 13 select acres in the Dundee Hills, this meaty wine is rich, dark, and full-bodied. Juicy flavors of cherries, espresso, raspberries, and caramel blend with gentle acids and satiny tannins to produce a structured wine with a sweet finish.

No.26

Daedalus Cellars

2008 Pinot Noir LabyrinthDundee Hills, $45

This delicate, floral wine combines juicy flavors and a medium-bodied, silky texture for a very drinkable vintage. Using a blend of grapes from Heron, Thistle, Maresh, and Murto vineyards, winemaker Aron Hess carefully selects the best barrels in the cellar to make this delicious wine.

No.27

Bethel Heights Vineyard

2008 Pinot Noir Justice VineyardEola-Amity Hills, $50

The Justice Vineyard is an Oregon Certified Sustainable wine, ensuring responsible growing and winemaking practices. This 2008 vintage's cherry fruit, soft tannins, and fresh acidity balance out floral notes and deeper aromatics of leather and earth. Juicy and bright, this is a pretty glass for easy sipping.

No.28

Brooks

2009 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, $22

This vibrant winery celebrates the dedication and passion of its late founder, Jimi Brooks, by producing high-quality biodynamic estate wines with heart. Blended from various pinot noir clones from throughout the Willamette Valley, this wine is deeply structured yet eminently drinkable, with flavors of coffee, caramel, earth, and ripe raspberry.

No.29

Ardiri winery & Vineyards

2009 Pinot Noir Vineyard Select Estate GrownChehalem Mountains, $45

Fruit for this estate pinot noir was hand-selected, hand-sorted, and cold-soaked by winemaker John Compagno in open stainless steel fermentation tanks to extract maximum color and flavor. Rich with oak notes, candied red fruit, and complex cola flavors, the results are robust yet balanced.

Rating 88

No.30

Luminous Hills

2009 Pinot Noir Astra EstateYamhill-Carlton, $35

Winemaker Byron Dooley's Astra uses a higher percentage of "whole cluster fermentation" than its sister wine from the Lux estate, which means brighter fruit flavors and an added spiciness. Emitting the aroma of dried flowers, herbs, and raspberries, this wine has enough tannic structure to develop for several years.

No.31

Siltstone

2007 Pinot Noir Guadalupe VineyardDundee Hills, $26

Bright flavors of cherry, strawberry, and a hint of cedar round out a beautiful wine harvested in the midst of October rainstorms. Made with grapes from a single old-vine vineyard on the west slope of the Dundee Hills, this wine shows the talent and perseverance of winegrowers in a tough year. Discover the difference a year can make: grab a bottle of the 2008 Guadalupe Vineyard for your own at-home vertical tasting.

No.32

Bethel Heights Vineyard

2008 Pinot Noir Casteel ReserveEola-Amity Hills, $60

Fully destemming the grapes before fermentation (stems mean strong tannins) lent great fruit concentration to the finished product of this ripe, lush pinot noir. A mild, bright, and easy-drinking wine, this will be delicious with hearty fall dishes like root vegetable stews and braised lamb.

No.33

Matello

2009 Pinot Noir LazarusWillamette Valley, $19

This budget-friendly pinot is ready to drink and full of juicy, ripe fruit flavors. Uncomplicated, pretty, and with enough earthiness and complexity to keep things exciting, this clear, unfussy wine is a great choice for fall.

No.34

Domaine Serene

2007 Pinot Noir Evenstad ReserveDundee Hills, $58

The latest vintage of Domaine Serene's flagship wine leaps out of the glass with scents of cherry, raspberry, and toasted spices. Silky tannins, a smooth, long finish, and a savory edge make this a lovely bottle for easy drinking and food pairing.

No.35

Et Fille

2009 Pinot Noir Maresh VineyardDundee Hills, $42

The storied Maresh Vineyard has been producing quality pinot noir grapes since 1984, and continues to lend the balanced strength of old vines to Et Fille's 2009 vintage. Bright tannins draw out flavors of red cherries, black currants, and plums.

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WHITES

Rating 95

No. 1

Evening Land ?Vineyards

2009 Chardonnay Seven Springs Vineyard La SourceEola-Amity Hills,$60

A collaboration between winemaker Isabelle Meunier and consulting winemaker Dominique Lafon, this wine is the result of a perfect storm of conscious viticulture, a merciful growing season, and a touch of magic. With layer upon layer of flavor—bright Meyer lemon, apple blossom, ripe Asian pear, and subtle spice, with well-blended caramel notes from careful oak aging—this wine has it all. Balanced, rich, and bright with crisp fruit, it is the quintessential expression of Oregon’s new chardonnay. Meunier honed her skills in Burgundy, New Zealand, and her native Canada before ?arriving in Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills region outside of Salem, where grapes for La Source are carefully grown and hand-selected.

Rating 94

No.2

Bethel Heights Vineyard

2009 Chardonnay Estate GrownEola-Amity Hills, $25

Using a blend of Dijon and old-vine Wente clones, this classic chardonnay shows a welcome balance of richness and bright acidity. The best of the old-school Oregon style, this rich, golden wine marries minerality and flavors of ripe pineapple and lemon zest, resulting in a smooth palate that’s full-bodied and perfumed but never cloying.

No.3

Ponzi Vineyards

2008 Chardonnay ReserveWillamette Valley,$30

2008 wasn’t just a great year for pinot noir. The cool spring and Indian summer of that storied vintage also resulted in chardonnays that continue to impress. In this smooth-textured, golden wine, rich oak notes are balanced by bright acidity and fresh flavors of lemon curd and thyme. Pair with poached halibut, earthy mushrooms, and fava beans.

No.4

Brooks

2008 Riesling Ara ? Willamette Valley, $25

Named after the altar that Noah built after the Flood, this riesling is the praise-worthy result of a tumultuous year. With heady scents of rose petals and apple and juicy flavors of peach, apricot, and kiwi, this bright and refreshing wine was featured at President Obama’s first White House State Dinner, paired with red lentil soup.

No.5

Lange Estate winery & vineyards

2010 Pinot Gris Reserve?Willamette Valley,$20

Don Lange was the first American winemaker to produce barrel-fermented pinot gris, and this legacy shines through in his son Jesse’s latest vintage. Oak barreling lends richness to the wine’s bright notes of green apple, honey, and lemon zest. Full-bodied from the first sip to the lingering finish, this wine will pair well with Mexican cuisine.

Rating 91

No.6

Raptor Ridge

2010 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley,$18

For fans of traditional Oregon pinot gris, winemaker Scott Shull’s latest vintage will certainly satisfy. Featuring clean scents of apple blossoms and tangerine, sweet flavors of pears and Meyer lemon, bright acidity, and a juicy finish, this wine will pair well with clams in garlic butter or grilled salmon.

No.7

Stoller Vineyards

2008 Chardonnay SV EstateDundee Hills, $28

The warm fall of 2008 allowed plenty of time for grapes to fully ripen, lending the vintage a lush, complex, and fruit-forward character. This creamy wine is packed with flavors of almonds, brioche, and baked apples, with a full body that will hold its own when paired with richer dishes like herb-roasted chicken, cheesy pasta, or creamy soups.

No.8

Adelsheim ?Vineyard

2010 Auxerrois Ribbon Ridge,$22

David Adelsheim imported Oregon’s first vines of Auxerrois (pronounced oak-sair-wah) in the late ’70s, but the varietal remains relatively unknown despite its success in Oregon’s cool soils. Bursting with scents of orange blossom, tropical fruit flavors, and bright acidity, this refreshing wine will pair perfectly with crab salad, ceviche, or cured salmon.

No.9

Teutonic Wine Co

2010 RieslingWillamette Valley, $15

This small-production winery—offering only 126 cases of its 2010 riesling—is known for its high-acid, low-alcohol wines that are truly food-friendly. With soft notes of peaches, strawberry, and rose petals, this light wine begs to be paired with oysters or any fresh, briny seafood.

Rating 90

No.10

Elk Cove ?Vineyards

2010 Pinot GrisWillamette Valley,$18

With scents of sweet pear and almonds, fresh acidity, and flavors of baking spice and ripe peaches that linger on the palate, Elk Cove’s 2010 estate pinot gris is a definite crowd pleaser. This food-friendly wine from one of Oregon’s oldest wineries will be delicious with a citrus salad and fresh chèvre.

Rating 89

No.11

Amity Vineyards

2008 Dry ?Gewürztraminer Sunnyside VineyardWillamette Valley,$20

This traditional golden gewürztraminer is rich, fruit-forward, and intense, with flavors of lychee, Asian pear, and fresh green herbs. Though labeled “dry,” this wine offers a bright sweetness through complex fruit flavors, and will perfectly calm the heat of spicy Thai food.

No.12

Love and ?Squalor

2010 RieslingWillamette Valley,$18

Matt Berson’s zesty riesling—made with organic grapes—is sweet, lush, and refreshing, offering flavors of peaches and mangoes for a balanced palate that’d be a perfect picnic sipper. Pack a backpack with a baguette, smoked salmon, Peppadew peppers, and a corkscrew, and you’re set for a wonderful meal.

Rating 88

No.13

J. Albin Winery

2010 Pinot GrisWillamette Valley,$15

Bright flavors of ripe pear and white peaches, notes of buttery almond, and a peppery spiciness blend together for a rich palate that lingers and tempts you to keep sipping. Pair with melon and goat cheese salads, thin-sliced cured meats, and fresh peaches.

No.14

Brooks

2010 Riesling Sweet P RieslingWillamette Valley,$22

Named for the winery’s 15-year-old owner, Pascal, this fun, casual wine has a bright, sparkling sweetness balanced by juicy acidity. Bursting with flavors of honeydew, peaches, and lilac, Sweet P will be a hit at any potluck. But bring a few bottles: it’ll go fast.

No.15

The Four Graces

2010 Pinot GrisWillamette Valley,$18

Stainless steel fermentation lends a clean subtlety to this silky wine from the Red Hills of Dundee. Bursting with citrus and green apple notes, this bright, lean pinot gris will pair well with pasta, fresh basil, and spicy Italian sausage.

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Taster’s Choice

Our expert panel of judges offered up pairing menus for four of our top wines.

1. Randy Goodman

2009 Cameron Vineyards Pinot Noir $25

Image: Lincoln Barbour

Tasting Notes:The ’09 bottling from John Paul at Cameron Winery shows the trademarks of his winemaking style—a perfect balance between earth and fruit. Aromas of Bing cherry and volcanic soils mix with flavors of ripe blackberry, cinnamon, and just a touch of good funk, making this wine easy and fun to drink.

Menu:

• Smoked salmon crostini, chickpeas, olivada
• Pork chops, grilled cherries, farro, summer squash
• Strawberry crêpes with mint and lemon curd

2. Erica Landon

2009 Andrew Rich Prelude Pinot Noir $22

Image: Lincoln Barbour

Tasting Notes:This bottle is Andrew Rich’s flagship pinot noir, a barrel selection from his cellar. The wine shows poise and complexity that reflect his (rather mysterious) personality, with layers of black cherries, plum, and a hint of spice.

Menu:

• Veal sweetbreads, poached plum, sautéed kale
• Beef osso bucco, Yukon gold purée, baby carrots
• Blackberry financier, blackberry compote, crème fraîche

3. Jessica Pierce

2008 Brooks Ara Riesling $25

Image: Lincoln Barbour

Tasting Notes:This year is all about Oregon riesling, and the refreshing offerings from Brooks wines are outstanding. This wine bursts with flavors of juicy white peach and savory herbs, with a touch of stony minerality and ripping acidity to finish.

Menu:

• Field greens salad with cucumber, radish, and fresh herbs
• Wood-fired ruby trout, Bavarian spiced
• Rainbow carrots sautéed with mint and butter

4. Todd Steele

2009 Matello Souris Pinot Noir $19

Image: Lincoln Barbour

Tasting Notes:Marcus Goodfellow’s wines have increasingly become more complete, with growing complexity in glasses that are often stunning. The Matello Souris is a perfect example of this: its layers of red cherries, plum, freshly turned earth, and hints of flowers create a perfect companion to Oregon’s fall flavors.

Menu:

• Smoked trout and PBR-braised pork belly, warm potatoes, cucumbers
• Confit of duck leg with spinach and lentil salad
• Crémeux de Bourgogne cheese, candied cherries, truffle salted pistachios

Image: Jason Blackheart

Ready for a cold one? You’re in the right place. Since the first craft breweries and brewpubs in the city opened a mere 25 years ago, Portland has been, hands-down, the nation’s best city for beer. And with plenty of ales and lagers fermenting in other towns across the state, Oregon may be home to a few runners-up, too. To help you pick your pints, we’ve put together an essential guide: the Portland area’s top brewpubs and bottle shops, the brewers to keep an eye on, and, of course, two 12-packs that showcase the state’s most delicious beers. We even included pithy advice on everything from beer tastings to which suds to take to a cookout. Here’s to you, Portland! May your hops ever wave.

Image: Kate Madden

 
Welcome to a new era of Oregon wine. Gone is the total domination of pinot noir’s old (and new) guard. Sure, our signature grape remains a mainstay of any best-of list, but it finds itself among an ever-livelier crowd of gamay, rosé, and Auxerrois produced in Oregon’s idyllic vineyards.

Over two weeks of marathon tasting sessions—every label concealed from the judges’ view—our panel of local wine experts sampled bottles from wineries large and (very) small, and producers both young and seasoned. The resulting list of 50 wines is a snapshot of Oregon’s state of the art, circa 2012. Best of all, more than half of the bottles are under $30.

It’s a whole new world, and it’s delicious.

Our Judges

 Dana Frank

Image: Mei Ratz

 After honing her palate as assistant wine steward for New Seasons Market and as wine director at 23Hoyt, Clarklewis, and Grüner, Frank has launched an enviable list of little-known international varietals as wine director at Riffle NW, the Pearl District’s new seafood hot spot. Frank also co-owns Bow & Arrow Wines with her husband, Scott Frank, producing Loire Valley varietals in the Willamette Valley.

Michael Garofola

Image: Mei Ratz

As manager and sommelier of Southeast Portland’s Genoa Restaurant, Garofola has earned a reputation for spinning behind-the-wines yarns as part of his genial tableside service. Garofola earned his wine expert badges in the trenches at Portland’s lauded Ten-01, Tabla Bistro, and at New Mexico’s James Beard Award–winning restaurant the Compound.

Savanna Ray 

Image: Mei Ratz

 Sommelier at Wildwood Restaurant and jet-setting instructor with the International Sommelier Guild, Ray’s passion for wine is on display across the West Coast and beyond. Ray also serves on the board of directors for the International Pinot Noir Celebration and runs wine service for Salud Auction, which provides access to health care for Oregon’s vineyard workers and their families.

David Speer

Image: Mei Ratz

A certified sommelier with a passion for education, Speer has owned and operated Portland’s Red Slate Wine Company since 2008, offering fine wines with a casual flair (read: un-snobby and affordable). In 2011, Speer opened Ambonnay—the first champagne and sparkling wine bar in the Pacific Northwest—in Portland’s Central Eastside.

 

 

 

Slide Show Check out behind-the-scenes photos from our judges’ tasting sessions

Pinot Noir

1. White Rose Estate Winery | 2010 Pinot Noir
98 Points

Dundee Hills Apellation Series
Dundee Hills, $45

Image: Kate Madden

Sourced from three vineyards perched on the Dundee Hills’ east- and southeast-facing volcanic slopes, this world-class wine showcases the remarkable trajectory of winemaker Jesus Guillen’s career. Guillen began as a vineyard worker in 2002, but his sophisticated palate and passion for the art of enology launched him into the role of head winemaker in 2008. Since then, his balanced, elegant, and complex wines have earned him a respected place among the state’s wine elite. With rich flavors of cherry compote, baking spices, mushroom, and dill—a surprising element of the classic Oregon pinot flavor profile—along with a savory earthiness, this wine drinks beautifully right now, and will age well for at least five to seven years.

2. White Rose Estate Winery |
2010 Pinot Noir
 98 Points

White Rose Vineyard
Dundee Hills, $70

Thanks to Guillen’s winemaking prowess and owner Greg Sanders’s long-standing love of elegant whole-cluster wines, White Rose has produced a lineup worthy of both of the top spots on this year’s list. Grapes from the four oldest blocks of the hilltop White Rose estate vineyard (planted in 1980) were selected for this intense, weighty wine with notes of cinnamon sticks, cedar, wet leaves, and ripe red fruit. This gorgeous whole-cluster–fermented wine was processed with the winery’s signature old-world wooden basket presses to ensure soft tannins and delicate aromatics with a long, satisfying finish.

3. Elk Cove Vineyards | 2010 Pinot Noir
 97 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $27

This beautiful, inexpensive pinot delivers what fans around the world think of as a classic Oregon version, with bold aromatics of black cherry and truffle that seem to jump right out of the glass. From one of Oregon’s pioneering wineries—boasting a legacy of nearly four decades of great wine—it offers luscious flavors of ripe red cranberries, raspberries, and cherries characteristic of 2010’s late-hanging harvest.

4. St. Innocent Winery | 2010 Pinot Noir
 97 Points

Zenith Vineyard
Eola-Amity Hills, $36

With heady scents of blackberry pie, campfire smoke, and black tea, this complex single-vineyard wine develops an earthy, floral undertone on the palate. It’s rounded out with soft tannins and great acidity that allow for both easy drinking now and development over time—guaranteed to please both the adventurous oenophile and the novice.

5. Willamette Valley Vineyards | 2009 Pinot Noir
 95 Points

Estate
Willamette Valley, $45

Winemaker Don Crank selected the best barrels from Willamette Valley Vineyard’s sustainably grown vine blocks to create this lush and complex wine, offering aromas of grapefruit, plum, and cherries with multilayered flavors of Campari and orange peel. There’s enough spice, tang, and acid to rejuvenate anyone craving a truly different kind of pinot.

6. Atticus Wine | 2009 Pinot Noir
 95 Points

Atticus Vineyard
Yamhill-Carlton, $42

Owned by two passionate, diverse families—with roots in Hong Kong, Peru, Ireland, Greece, and Paris—Atticus Wine applies a worldly approach to Oregon terroir. This bottle’s complex aromas of dark fruit, Asian spices, and sesame oil deliver a silky-textured, layered palate, dark and deep and with just enough acid to keep things bright.

Image: Kate Madden

 7. Walter Scott | 2010 Pinot Noir
 95 Points

Holstein Vineyard
Dundee Hills, $38

A labor of love from top local wine experts Erica Landon and Ken Pahlow, this small-production wine shines with the 2010 vintage’s unique flavors of Campari, cranberries, orange zest, raspberries, and rose hips. Aged for 15 months in French oak—30 percent new—this elegant, unfiltered wine perfectly balances sweet and bitter notes for a sophisticated sip.

Image: Kate Madden

 8. Apolloni Vineyards | 2009 Pinot Noir
 94 Points • Best Buy

Estate
Willamette Valley, $26

The Apolloni estate vineyard’s south-facing slopes are carefully cultivated for low yields of complex, sustainably grown fruit. The 2009 vintage benefited from a warm, dry fall that allowed for the development of lush, ripe grapes. They infuse this unusual wine with flavors of dried fruit, tea leaves, and dried roses.

9. Tyee Wine Cellars | 2009 Pinot Noir
 94 Points • Best Buy

Estate
Willamette Valley, $24

Brooding yet balanced, Tyee showcases the darker side of pinot noir, with firm tannins, shadowy floral scents, and flavors of cranberry, bitter orange, and black cherry. Its complexity results from the unique blend of grapes from the estate vineyard’s young and old vines.

10. Evesham Wood Vineyard | 2010 Pinot Noir
 94 Points

Le Puits Sec Vineyard
Eola-Amity Hills, $36

Boasting aromas of pomegranate and black currant, this pinot’s nose is soft and delicate. Dried lavender accents flavors of ripe red fruit and a savory midpalate. Sourced from the eastern side of the Eola-Amity Hills ridge, known for its shallow volcanic basalt soils and low fruit yield, this wine is certified as organically grown by Oregon Tilth.

11. Hawks View Cellars | 2010 Pinot Noir
93 Points

Hawks View Vineyard
Chehalem Mountains, $35

A select blend of sustainably farmed grapes from the Hawks View estate vineyard results in a balanced wine, marked by aromas of violets and plum. Strong but well-integrated tannins round out flavors of marionberry and chocolate for a bold but elegant glass.

12. Haden Fig | 2010 Pinot Noir
 93 Points • Best Buy

Cancilla Vineyard
Willamette Valley, $30

This bright and tangy selection is perfect for pairing with Oregon seafood. With an herbaceous nose boasting notes of dill, orange peel, and raspberry, it develops into a gorgeous dark-fruit palate with a touch of minerality, bright acid, and a long, pure finish.

13. Ardiri Winery | 2009 Pinot Noir
 91 Points

Willamette Valley
Chehalem Mountains, $34

The only wine on our list to make an appearance two years running, this estate pinot noir continues to impress with its rich flavors of cassis, dark cherry, and black pepper, balanced by big, luscious tannins. A note of menthol on the finish adds a refreshing touch to a deliciously dark wine.

14. Utopia Vineyard | 2009 Pinot Noir
 91 Points

Paradise Private Reserve
Ribbon Ridge, $55

Utopia owner Daniel Warnshuis’s first private reserve release is a lush garnet beauty presenting bold flavors of rose petals and ripe red fruit. The single-vineyard wine’s elegant tannins and spirited acidity balance with complex spice.

15. Lazy River Vineyard | 2009 Pinot Noir
 90 Points

Lumpkin Family Estate
Yamhill-Carlton, $36

This robust wine showcases the savory side of the versatile pinot noir grape with big, balanced flavors of soy sauce, truffles, dry earth, blackberries, and dried flowers on the palate. A long finish offers notes of barbecue smoke and charred meat.

Image: Kate Madden

 16. Tyee Wine Cellars | 2009 Pinot Noir
 90 Points

Estate Barrel Select
Willamette Valley, $35

Offering sweetly herbaceous aromas of fresh English peas, mint, and red plums on the nose, this pinot rounds out with ripe red cherries and a touch of vanilla on the palate. A bit shy out of the glass, it will develop into a true beauty within a few years.

17. Domaine Drouhin Oregon | 2009 Pinot Noir
 90 Points

Laurène
Dundee Hills, $65

A truly classic Oregon pinot noir: lightly oaked and luscious, it shines on the palate with notes of pure red cherries and black currants. Produced entirely with grapes from the Drouhin family estate in the Dundee Hills, it offers a vivid sense of place.

18. Adelsheim | 2010 Pinot Noir
 90 Points

Elizabeth’s Reserve
Willamette Valley, $55

This blend of estate and non-estate wines showcases the Willamette Valley in a single glass. Winemaker David Paige carefully selects the best characteristics from different soil types, clones, and barrel characteristics for a wine that’s satisfying and extremely drinkable, with flavors of bright raspberry and soft, musky cedar.

19. David Hill | 2009 Pinot Noir
 89 Points

Winemakers Cuvée
Willamette Valley, $50

The first signature cuvée from winemaker Jason Bull, this big, bold pinot bursts with lush flavors of blackberries and dark plums. Thanks to its full-bodied profile and robust tannins, it will hold its own against bold dishes like grilled meats.

20. Libra | 2008 Pinot Noir
 89 Points

Momtazi Vineyard
Willamette Valley, $35

Complex and slightly heavy aromas of anise and dried dark fruits give way to a surprisingly lively palate with plenty of acid and bright red-fruit flavors.

  Slide Show: Behind the Scenes of the 2012 Wine Tasting

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Other Reds

Image: Kate Madden

 1. Division Winemaking Company | 2011 Gamay Noir
 94 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $20

Forget what you know about gamay: this beauty is no cheap Beaujolais nouveau! Thomas and Kate Monroe (members of the new Southeast Wine Collective) are leading a gamay brigade, aiming to bring this delicious varietal to more of Oregon’s vineyard slopes. Aged five months in neutral French oak, this well-balanced, tannic, and sophisticated cherry-red wine carries both the fresh berry and spicy white-pepper notes that characterize the upper echelon of the varietal.

2. Teutonic Wine Company | 2010 Pinot Meunier
 94 Points • Best Buy

Borgo Pass Vineyard
Willamette Valley, $22

One of the traditional components of Champagne blends, pinot meunier enjoys a solo performance in this pale red wine, showing off its ripe cherry and pomegranate flavors and a smoky, earthy edge. Though the grape is rarely grown outside of Europe, Teutonic’s Barnaby and Olga Tuttle make the most of Oregon’s few plots of pinot meunier to create this easy-drinking, one-of-a-kind wine.

3. God King Slave Wines | 2009 Syrah-Tempranillo
 93 Points • Best Buy

Rogue Valley, $26

God King Slave’s young owners, Chris Jiron and Christine Collier, are tireless champions of Southern Oregon wine, believing that the region’s diversity and climate will broaden the state’s international wine reputation. (Their motto: “Create like a God. Command like a King. Work like a Slave.”) With their first vintage of this herbaceous, meaty, and compelling syrah-tempranillo blend, they’re on their way.

4. Tesóaria Vineyards | 2010 Barbera
 91 Points

Southern Oregon, $35

Bursting with the lush flavors of red and dark blue fruit, a food-friendly acidity, and a savory backbone through the palate, this easy-drinking, hand-harvested wine hails from the Olson family’s sustainably farmed winery on the banks of the Umpqua River.

5. Bryn Mawr | 2009 Tempranillo 
 91 Points

Image: Kate Madden

 Eola-Amity Hills, $35

The Bryn Mawr estate—one of the few in the Willamette Valley to successfully grow tempranillo—is perched high above the valley floor, where cool afternoon breezes preserve the acidity and freshness of the fruit. The result: a bold wine that balances the classic tempranillo characteristics of plum and dark cherry with smoky coffee notes and vivacious acidity.

6. Glaser Estate Winery | 2011 Malbec
 90 Points • Best Buy

Southern Oregon, $28

Recalling the bright, floral malbecs of France’s Loire Valley, this fresh and richly colored wine sparkles with flavors of tart cherry and grapefruit zest, plus a touch of stony minerality.

7. Folin Cellars | 2008 Estate Tempranillo
 90 Points • Best Buy

Folin Vineyards
Rogue Valley, $30

Southern Oregon’s hot summer days and cool nights provide ideal conditions for warm-climate varietals like tempranillo, as this wine gracefully proves. Dark and full-bodied, Folin’s rich wine boasts deep, spicy black-fruit flavors and well-integrated tannins lightened by fresh acidity and a delicate floral overtone.

8. Styring Vineyards | 2008 Petit Verdot-Cabernet Sauvignon
 90 Points

Reckless Red Blend
Columbia Valley, $35

The only wine on our list sourced from Columbia Valley vineyards, this well-balanced blend of warm-climate varietals offers a unique flavor profile studded with Indian spices, lush blackberries, dark plums, and fresh grape skins.

Image: Kate Madden

 9. TeSóSria Vineyards | 2010 Syrah
 89 Points

Southern Oregon, $35

Medium-bodied and lively, TeSóAria’s ruby red holds flavors of savory spice, black pepper, and roasted meats, with a lingering note of barbecue smoke on the finish. Notes of ripe raspberry and chocolate balance the wine’s intriguing savory characteristics.

10. J. Scott Cellars | 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
 89 Points • Best Buy

Rogue Valley, $28

Southern Oregon’s sunny Rogue Valley averages 10 inches of rainfall annually—an ideal climate for big, juicy wines like this, that serve up generous fruit flavors of black currant with a base of pleasing spice and fresh violets.

Rosé

Image: Kate Madden

 1. Ribera Vineyards | 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir
 94 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $24

Darrel and Molly Roby’s small West Linn winery is quickly gaining acclaim for its delicate, thoughtful, and affordable wines. Copper-toned and shimmering with notes of fresh strawberry and watermelon, this food-friendly dry rosé is a dinner-party pleaser.

2. Domaine Drouhin Oregon | 2011 Pinot Noir Edition Rosé
 94 Points • Best Buy

Dundee Hills, $20

Made entirely from pinot noir grapes grown at the Domaine Drouhin estate vineyard, this breezy wine offers delicate flavors of rose petals and raspberries with a lively saline edge.

3. Abacela | 2011 Rosé of Grenache
 94 Points • Best Buy

Umpqua Valley, $15

The Spanish specialists at Abacela are revealing just how light and fresh warm-weather varietals can be. This delightful, dry rosé pulls you in with aromas of pomegranate and strawberries and hooks you with flavors of peaches, tart cherry, and zippy citrus.

4. Luminous Hills | 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir
 93 Points • Best Buy

Aura Estate
Yamhill-Carlton, $21

This sustainably farmed wine reveals the lighter side of pinot noir, balancing refreshing flavors of strawberries and melon with a subtle, earthy complexity. Winemaker Byron Dooley pulls off the wine after brief contact with the grapes’ plum-red skins—the “saignée method”—to achieve a lush hue and intensity.

5. Division Winemaking Company | 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir
 91 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $19

Inspired by the dry and structured rosés of France’s Loire Valley, this light salmon–colored wine showcases flavors of watermelon, green apple, and fresh peach.

Whites

Image: Kate Madden

 1. Crowley | 2010 Chardonnay
 96 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $24

A perfect example of the new Oregon chardonnay, with lively acid and light, well-integrated oak aging (25 percent new barrels), this bottle allows the passion fruit and stone fruit notes to shine. Using Wente and 108 clones from the lauded Four Winds Vineyard and Maresh Vineyard estates, owner/winemaker Tyson Crowley’s sustainably farmed and affordable wine shows just how delicious a light touch can be.

2. Amity Vineyards | 2010 Riesling
 96 Points • Best Buy

Wedding Dance
Willamette Valley, $17

Bursting out of the glass with aromas of honeysuckle, lemon zest, and sweet white flowers, Amity’s Wedding Dance offers touches of petrol and flint that characterize a classic Riesling—a joyous effort sure to convert Riesling skeptics into fanatics.

3. Stoller Vineyards | 2010 Chardonnay Reserve
 95 Points • Best Buy

Dundee Hills, $28

Sourced from Stoller’s Dundee Hills estate vineyard, this complex, rich, and silky Dijon clone chardonnay showcases aromas of citrus zest and honey, with flavors of nectarine and pear edged with a hint of white pepper.

4. Teutonic Wine Company | 2011 Riesling
 95 Points • Best Buy

Crow Valley “December Third”
Willamette Valley, $27

Oregon’s irreverent Riesling ringleaders offer up a refreshing blend of bright aromas, bracing acidity, and well-balanced flavors of green apple, orange peel, kiwi, and a stony minerality.

5. Four Graces | 2011 Pinot Blanc
 94 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $24

A quintessential pinot gris, this bright, crisp bottle delivers aromas of orange flower, star fruit, almond, and apricot, with a perfectly pretty palate of key limes and sweet apples.

6. Pyrenees Vineyard | 2009 Gewürztraminer
 93 Points • Best Buy

Umpqua Valley, $20

This aromatic, off-dry wine sparkles with scents of peach and crisp apple. Though the grape typically grows best in cold climates, the hot summer days of the Umpqua Valley give it a lush fullness on the palate, tasting of melon, honey, and pears.

7. Ponzi Vineyards | 2009 Chardonnay Reserve
 93 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $30

By using the Dijon clones best suited for the Willamette Valley’s cooler vintages, Luisa Ponzi has conjured a rich wine with complex layers of citrus, orange blossom, and a touch of caramel—and a long, satisfying finish.

8. Adelsheim | 2011 Auxerrois
 92 Points • Best Buy

Ribbon Ridge, $22

Home to one of the first plantings of Auxerrois—pronounced oak-sair-wah—in Oregon, Adelsheim continues to produce the best example of this largely unknown varietal. Balanced by notes of pear, pineapple, and orange blossom, its bracing acidity is as fresh as can be.

Image: Kate Madden

 9. Winderlea | 2010 Chardonnay
 92 Points

Willamette Valley, $36

This classic, sustainably farmed chardonnay showcases well-integrated oak and flavors of peach and apricot blossom, gaining depth with each sip for a refreshing tartness on the finish.

10. Solena Estate | 2011 Pinot Gris
 92 Points • Best Buy

Willamette Valley, $20

Bursting with flavors of red apple, passion fruit, and orange blossom, this pretty wine gets a fruit-forward, juicy flavor boost from an addition of 6 percent gewürztraminer.

11. Penner-Ash | 2011 Viognier
 91 Points • Best Buy

Oregon, $30

Fermented exclusively in stainless steel tanks, this crisp and complex Rhone-style wine is ultra-refreshing, with vibrant acidity, floral aromas, and flavors of white peach, lychee, ginger, and cardamom.

12. Owen Roe | 2011 Pinot Gris
 90 Points • Best Buy

Crawford Beck
Eola-Amity Hills, $21

Luscious and balanced, Eola-Amity Hills’ true-to-type pinot gris features well-integrated acid and tangy-sweet tangerine flavors. Its breezy salinity begs to be paired with raw oysters or fresh crab.

13. Teutonic Wine Company | 2011 Riesling
 90 Points • Best Buy

Medici Vineyard
Chehalem Mountains, $19

Teutonic’s light and subtle old-vine wine is layered with delicate aromas of candied lemon zest and orange blossom—ideal for a picnic, paired with a spread of finger foods.

14. Misty Oaks | 2011 Pinot Gris
 89 Points • Best Buy

Julio’s Hill
Umpqua Valley, $16

Meyer lemon, marzipan, and honeydew notes shine on the palate of a wine that conjures the word “tropical.” Soft and fruit-forward, the estate-grown selection offers a touch of earthiness to ground its rich, exotic flavors.

15. Matello | 2010 Chardonnay Richard’s Cuvée
 89 Points

Ribbon Ridge, $42

Lush and rich, Marcus Goodfellow’s balanced wine serves up tropical notes of pineapple and lemon curd with bracing acidity and a long, silky finish. A foundation of minerality recalls the grapes’ source: the Whistling Ridge vineyard’s dry-farmed vines.